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Description

Dwight D. Eisenhower's custom-tailored uniform as Supreme Commander of Allied Forces Europe with White House documentation

Dwight D. Eisenhower. Uniform from Post as Supreme Commander of Allied Forces Europe [SACEUR] of NATO. January 16, 1952. Custom-made olive drab wool uniform includes a signature "Ike" style jacket and matching creased pants. The jacket has an adjustable waistband and two bellows chest pockets. A Supreme Headquarters Allied Expeditionary Force (SHAEF) patch featuring a flaming sword beneath a blue sky and rainbow is sewn on the left arm, and bullion Great Seal and five-star general insignias are each present on both shoulders. When laid flat, the top of the collar to the bottom hem measures 24 inches, with the shoulder width spanning 21 inches. The width between the underarm seams measures 22.5 inches, and the waist is 20 inches across. The pants' bottom hem to the top of the waist is 43.25 inches, with an inseam of 28 inches and a waistband of 18.25 inches.

The uniform is in beautiful condition, with both jacket and pants boasting quality hand-finished details. The SHAEF patch has an unfinished cut edge with minor fading to the black field and minimal pulling to the blue threads at the top right corner. Black stitching holds the patch in place at the edges and down the center of the sword. The attractive bullion Great Seal insignias are lightly curled at the tips of the eagles' wings, else charming and greatly detailed. The satin-like interior lining of the jacket remains in lovely condition, and the P. Vauclair label can be seen above the interior pocket. The pant legs maintain their creases, and the zipper remains intact. There are two small holes and some light wear at the pants' front, a few inches below the buttonhole. A loose thread can be seen at one of the interior buttons, and the white satin-like material lining the waist shows only minor wear and soiling. Additional fabric toward the back of the interior waistband bears the designer's name, company address, and date of January 16, 1952. "Mr. Général EISENHOWER" and the number "5I79" also appear on the label, with all information remaining bold and easily legible. Only minor soiling exists on the fabric bearing the label.

Eisenhower himself first designed and wore this particular style of jacket. He advocated for the adoption of this style by United States troops theater-wide due to its cleaner appearance. In 1944, soon after his appointment to Supreme Commander of the Allied Expeditionary Force, "Ike" jackets became standard issue for all troops. He would continue wearing his design during his time as the Supreme Commander of Allied Forces Europe (SACEUR) in the 1950s, including during his tour of the European capitals. As can be seen on the interior labels, this uniform was produced by the Paris-based designer Paul Vauclair. In addition to creating uniforms for soldiers and police officers, Vauclair dressed many high-profile personalities, including the political figures General de Gaulle and General Eisenhower. This uniform was undoubtedly made to wow and looks as sharp as ever.

The uniform is accompanied by two letters and an envelope on official White House stationery, one letter dated February 29 and the other March 19, both 1956. Both are from Robert L. Schulz, Military Aide to President Eisenhower. The first letter requests acknowledgment for the receipt of a previous letter and Eisenhower's uniform, sent with the understanding that the artifact would be displayed in a museum. The second piece of correspondence confirms the uniform was received and discusses the SHAEF patch.

The SHAEF patch stitched onto the left sleeve was not a patch used during Eisenhower's NATO service, but rather was a patch used during WWII. Per the letters of provenance included in this lot, Colonel Robert L. Schulz, Military Aide to President Eisenhower, suggests the patch be sewn to the left sleeve of the uniform blouse before it is displayed. Evidently, Col. Schulz's advice was taken as the uniform now bears the patch on the left sleeve as advised.


Auction Info

Auction Dates
July, 2022
16th Saturday
Bids + Registered Phone Bidders: 1
Lot Tracking Activity: N/A
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Sold on Jul 16, 2022 for: $62,500.00
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